Liam Schwartz at the Consular Corner monthly newsletter for December 2011 undertook to answer a set of Foreign Service wardrobe questions (from Feb. 8, 2010) that he'd found at the Styleforum.
DamonG asked:
"First time poster, long time lurker -After about a 1.5 year process, I've been offered (and accepted) a position with the US State Department as a Foreign Service Officer. I am 38 and have worked all my life in the information technology field in silicon valley. Current work wear is chinos, oxford shirts and perhaps a sweater, loafer shoes.
I've had very little occasion to wear a suit - I own exactly one - a charcoal Calvin Klein that is my wedding / funeral / interview suit. It is a 3 button and fits well. In my new career, I am going to need a new wardrobe - I figure at a minimum 3 more suits (navy, navy pin, grey and / or black), as well as some shirts and ties. I like 3 button suits, so will shop for those.
So my question is this - where should I go to buy these suits? I'm ready (and somewhat prepared financially) to spend what's required. Judging from Brooks Brothers prices, I will need about 3 to 4k $ for 3 suits and 6 or 7 shirts with ties. Should I shop at brooks brothers? I want suits that will last a good while, both in terms of wear as well as fashion. I would like to shop locally (Silicon Valley) as I find it very hard to mail order clothing - my body doesn't lend itself well to 'off-the-rack' clothing. I need a store that I can trust will put me into suits that are appropriate and fit well.
Most of my work initially at State will be seated (visa adjudication) with some American citizen services work mixed in (births, deaths, etc.). There will be official meetings, parties, etc. to attend. In other words, I need a good all-around formal wardrobe.
Am I correct in my wardrobe calculations? Frankly, I am a dope when it comes to buying a suit - I don't want to buy something that will fall apart in a few days, I also don't want to look like Ambassador Dufflebag when I get to post. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. My report date is March 29th in DC. I need to have everything wrapped up well before that time.
Thanks -Damon" (2/8/10 at 10:36pm)
By now, Brother Damon has presumably completed his initial orientation and other language/tradecraft training and is serving well and honorably (and suitably attired) at his first assignment abroad. CAA wishes him every success in his FS endeavors.
That being said, CAA can't resist taking a swing at answering his earlier questions, in the naive hope that this may be of some use to other readers.
1. "First time poster, long time lurker -After about a 1.5 year process, I've been offered (and accepted) a position with the US State Department as a Foreign Service Officer. I am 38 and have worked all my life in the information technology field in silicon valley. Current work wear is chinos, oxford shirts and perhaps a sweater, loafer shoes."
Firstly, CAA would like to offer his congratulations upon your being offered (and accepting) a conditional appointment to the U.S. Foreign Service. This is quite a personal achievement by itself and you will undoubtedly go on to great things.
Your recognition that you don't already have all the answers and lack of fear when it comes to seeking help from others speaks well of you.
(CAA had to google "chinos" just be sure we weren't talking about dungarees rather than khakis or something. Must be a regionalism. Sort of like Duckheads.)
Your stock of oxford shirts (presumably with button-down collars) will transition perfectly well into an FSO professional wardrobe, assuming (of course) that they're in reasonably sober colors and/or patterns. Likewise for the loafers.
As with many things in the State Dept./Foreign Service corporate culture, much is owed to a rather WASP-y, Northeastern preppy, Ivy League protestant establishmentarian ethos.
(Thus the preference for Brooks Brothers suits and the like.)
A certain studied eccentricism, like that of the stereotypical English gentleman, is also sometimes in evidence as being a part of this corporate cultural heritage. Thus the conformist grey flannel or J.Edgar Hoover/IBM black Blues Brothers suits are occasionally accessorized with interesting ties, braces, and the like.
Similarly western-style boots (see far below) and seersucker suits can also figure into the FSO wardrobe mix.
2. "I've had very little occasion to wear a suit - I own exactly one - a charcoal Calvin Klein that is my wedding / funeral / interview suit. It is a 3 button and fits well. In my new career, I am going to need a new wardrobe - I figure at a minimum 3 more suits (navy, navy pin, grey and / or black), as well as some shirts and ties. I like 3 button suits, so will shop for those."
Full stop. For funerals, you need a black suit, not a charcoal (or other/darker) shade of grey. For most other business-attire purposes, a charcoal suit will serve quite admirably.
Let's analyze your real requirements first; and by analyze, I'll use the traditional meaning of break-it-into-tiny-bits-and-tackle-those-one-by-one.
Your first stop as a newly-minted FSO will be the George P. Schultz National Foreign Affairs Training Center (NFATC) of the Foreign Service Institute (FSI), where you will attend the initial Foreign Service Officer (FSO) orientation, "PG101 - Orientation for Foreign Service Officers," traditionally known as the "A-100" class.
You should be advised ahead of time that for A-100, business suits (or equivalent female attire) are required dress for the entirety of the orientation course.
(That's not strictly true, as there will be an off-site training event at The Woods where dress will be much more casual.)
So, allowing for every-other-day airing out and periodic dry-cleaning, you'll need at least a second business suit to get you through the orientation class lasting.
Your instincts about suit colors, "(navy, navy pin, grey and / or black)," are good. If you've already got grey covered, then go with (one each) blue or "navy pin," and/or black.
(Some of us have the skin tone to successfully pull off an olive suit; I don't myself but you might.)
As for shirts and ties, your current stock of oxfords may be fine, but if I may make a recommendation, L.L. Bean has some very durable wash & wear oxford shirts which I've found to be quite serviceable (monograming is free if you have their credit card). I have not managed to wear out a single one yet, although I did damage one once.
In addition to the online store, L.L. Bean has a physical location at the Tysons Corner Center shopping mall, only a few miles from where you'll be training in Arlington, Va. And, if you're dead-set on it, you can also visit Brooks Brothers in the same shopping mall.
Ties? Don't get me started.... Those are your opportunity to show a little individuality; just don't overdo it.
By the way, while you're at FSI, check to see when they're offering the (optional) Protocol course. It may be offered on a weekend, but is well worth investing the time.
3. "So my question is this - where should I go to buy these suits? I'm ready (and somewhat prepared financially) to spend what's required. Judging from Brooks Brothers prices, I will need about 3 to 4k $ for 3 suits and 6 or 7 shirts with ties. Should I shop at brooks brothers? I want suits that will last a good while, both in terms of wear as well as fashion. I would like to shop locally (Silicon Valley) as I find it very hard to mail order clothing - my body doesn't lend itself well to 'off-the-rack' clothing. I need a store that I can trust will put me into suits that are appropriate and fit well."
See my above about numbers of suits. For A-100, you'll need no more than three suits. It would be advisable to wait until you know where you're first assignment will be before making a larger wardrobe investment than that bare minimum.
Currently the A-1oo orientation lasts only six weeks. Required training after that will vary depending upon your individual post-training assignment. A selection of "tradecraft" courses will get you up to speed for various consular, political, management, economic, or other assignments.
But the "long pole in the tent" will be language training, which may or may not be required for any particular post or individual billet.
Why does this matter in terms of wardrobe? Two reasons:
- After A-100, required dress for FSI students devolves to something known as "FSI casual," which is quite similar to what you described (above) as appropriate in the Silicon Valley IT arena.
- There are more than 260 individual U.S. embassy, mission, and consulate (incl. consulates-general) posts around the world in a variety of climates. After "Flag Day," get in touch with your supervisor-to-be that post and inquire about what's normal business attire at that post and for any climate/locale-specific advice.
("Flag Day" is the tradition-wrapped event towards the latter part of your A-1oo training at which you will learn your first post of assignment, upon which will hinge things like tradecraft and language training.)
All that being said, CAA has nothing against Brooks Brothers suits. But as a personal matter, CAA decided as a junior officer that he'd hold off on making such largish individual wardrobe purchases until he was a mid-grade officer (or had at least gotten recommended for commissioning & tenure).
4. "Most of my work initially at State will be seated (visa adjudication) with some American citizen services work mixed in (births, deaths, etc.). There will be official meetings, parties, etc. to attend. In other words, I need a good all-around formal wardrobe."
Words, and definitions, are important. Formal wear (and wardrobe) is not the same as business attire. Formal means black tie (i.e., tuxedo). CAA has worn his own tuxedo on official business as an FSO on exactly one occasion, and that was in the latter months of his second overseas tour.
This is not to say you shouldn't have a tux, and the requisite accoutrements, pressed and ready to go in your closet. But it is to say that you should hold off on buying formal rig until you know where you're being assigned.
(CAA has had considerably more than one non-work, i.e., social, occasion to get into his monkey suit, such as annual U.S. Marines birthday balls.)
If you're headed to the tropics, then get a white (or cream) tuxedo jacket rather than a black one; you can always pick up a black dinner jacket later on. For that matter, in a number of places, "Red Sea Rig" or "Planters" may be worn in lieu of the whole black tie enchilada.
(CAA will forebear a discussion of evening wear since the chances of most entry level officers having to attend a white tie event are miniscule.)
As noted above, check with your supervisor-to-be for the "ground truth" about appropriate professional attire at your first post of assignment. That may save you some considerable time and expense.
For the average first-and-second-tour (FAST) visa adjudicator, you'll be seated for much of your day at a 15-minute forced-entry/ballistic-resistant transaction (or "teller") window. Your clientele won't even be able to tell if you're wearing pants at all, so spending a lot of money on expensive suits may be going a bit overboard. Dockers (or similar) khakis or chinos will more than suffice.
Depending upon the degree of formality in that particular consular section, you may interview in a simple shirt and tie or wear a blazer or sport coat of some sort. In any event, get a nice navy blue blazer with the traditional shiny buttons. They're widely available and represent a cornerstone of any gentleman's wardrobe.
(In certain Spanish-influenced countries, wear of the Guayabera shirt will substitute for day-to-day business attire, even in a U.S. diplomatic post.)
5. "Am I correct in my wardrobe calculations? Frankly, I am a dope when it comes to buying a suit - I don't want to buy something that will fall apart in a few days, I also don't want to look like Ambassador Dufflebag when I get to post. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. My report date is March 29th in DC. I need to have everything wrapped up well before that time."
I love the expression "Ambassador Dufflebag"!
_____
Schwartz, Esq. noted the first three responses to Mr. G's query:
"First Reply: Congratulations. Don't go hog wild on the clothes until you find out where you are posted. Many places will afford the opportunity for bespoke. DOS (and the whole interagency team) dress like the rest of the USG, average or below. If you can do better, that's great. Men's Wearhouse is probably good enough."
"Second Reply: Don't make the navy pinstripe too bold, it will definitely stand out. Most government employees will be in solid colors. I would recommend a navy and two grey scale colors. Welcome to Foggy Bottom."
"Third Reply: You're going to spend your first year stuck in Arlington at A100 and other courses before going anywhere. While it will still be important to make a good first impression, you don't have to go all out for training. I recommend getting a suit or two before you arrive, then take a look around before buying the rest. Also, as others have said, you'll probably want to find out where you'll be moving before buying a complete wardrobe."
Nothing at all wrong with Men's Wearhouse and the like, although CAA prefers Alexandre of London and even Jos. A. Bank. L.L. Bean (as noted above) also carries some business-grade clothing worth checking into.
As for pinstriped suits, nothing wrong with a subtle bit of pinstriping, but don't overdo it; you don't want to look like either a mafioso or a Fox News anchorman.
_____
Schwartz, Esq. added:
"We at Consular Corner also recommend these three important fashion tips to new officers arriving at their designated visa lines:
Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie. Short sleeve shirts are perceived as lower class apparel. Fine as part of a uniform or if you aspire to be a fast-food manager, not if you want to project a professional image.
Suit and Sports jackets are symbols of authority.
No pens or pocket protectors in your shirt pocket."
Schwartz, Esq. is pretty much dead-on-balls-accurate about the short sleeve shirts with tie combo, but that may not be utterly universal in application (see my note about Guayabera shirts above).
Suits and sports coats/blazers lend an air of professional decorum to what would otherwise be perceived as a vulgar brawl.
Seriously, visa applicants are make a considerable investment of time and energy to get ready for their interview at the U.S. embassy (or consulate). The least the interviewer can do (along with a lot of other least-you-can-do things) is have a professional appearance, sort of like a judge (only without the robes and wigs, which is a shame actually).
Likewise, pens and pocket protectors simply don't lend to the air of knowledgeable majesty that you want to project at the interview window. That being said, if the pen is a fountain pen, much can be forgiven.
_____
Some final remarks about building that professional wardrobe, from the ground up.
Always wear a (white) t-shirt, even in the tropics. Crew-neck not v-neck. Cotton.
With business attire, wear black or cordovan (oxblood) loafers or lace-up shoes. They should be brush-shined at least once a week to give a nice gloss (and to preserve the leather). Spit-shined shoes are a trademark of military professionals, but FSOs don't need to spend that much of their day thusly.
Some FSOs from Southern/Western states like to wear boots with their business suits. This is a regionalism and not strictly wrong, even for U.S. diplomats.
(CAA is not quite so broadminded when it comes to string/bolo ties.)
Shoes should generally match the (leather) belt and the watchband (if leather).
Socks should match the trousers (some folks would argue they should match the shirt) and be over-the-calf. (Nobody wants to see your pale, hairy legs when you sit down.)
CAA recommends oxford shirts be in the colors white, blue, and pink (or, if you prefer, "light red") if solid colors and suggests white-and-blue and white-and-red striped oxford shirts as well to break up the rotation.
FSOs should have perhaps at least a dozen ties to wear in rotation, of various patterns, some classic/traditional (rep, foulard, &tc.) patterns and some in current fashions. CAA will admit a fondness for ties designed by Jerry Garcia.
Don't invest too much in neckties, at least at first, since fashions and styles change seasonally/annually.
Headgear. In recent decades headgear for business attire has dropped mostly out of style, although that varies from time to place. If your assignment takes you to sunny tropical or sub-tropical locales, you may want to re-think this and invest in a bit of topcover protection.
Lastly, DamonG was coming to D.C. (and onwards) from Southern California, where seasonal variations in temperature and weather are somewhat muted compared to that of the Middle Atlantic states. So my final suggestion involves outerwear.
Think about what season it will be for the (minimum) two-to-three (plus) months you'll be in Washington, D.C. At the very least, invest in a good raincoat. CAA favors a London Fog trenchcoat-style raincoat he purchased during the mid-1990s, which has a zip-out liner for colder weather. That ought to suffice during all but freezing and sub-zero weather.
If a D.C. winter is in your future, invest in a good wool topcoat. A black wool topcoat is appropriate for all levels of formality, business, and casual dress. It won't go out of style, ever.
____
Best of luck to you!
_____
ADDENDUM: "Ol' Remus" noted at Eternity Road:
"A man should choose his watch with care, it's one of his three sanctioned pieces of jewelry, the others being his pen and his eyeglasses."
CAA will admit to not being quite so old-fashioned as Ol' Remus; CAA's ideas of "sanctioned" pieces of jewelry for men extend to sundries such as wedding and class rings, tie chains (or tacks), and a (single) lapel pin.
Being of a military bent, CAA even thinks that men's jewelry can reasonably extend to bracelets of the POW/MIA, paracord, Med-Alert, and men's ID varieties.
Just as your leatherwear (shoes, belt, and wristwatch band) ought to match (at least broadly), so too your metallic jewelry ought not clash. Keep this in mind with regards to belt buckles, wrist watches, and even shoe buckles (Heaven forbid!) as well.
Obviously, you can't (or at least shouldn't) swap out your wedding band for another metal just to harmonize your ensemble and the same dignity ought to be extended to your university/college class or signet rings.
And while, unlike the military, there's no strict rule about the number of rings an FSO ought to wear on any given hand, is impression you want to convey that of a riverboat gambler (or pimp)?
Eyeglasses may or may not represent a sizeable financial payout for any male FSO so I hesitate to lay out any strict rules other than to think about how the frames will mesh with your working wardrobe before you invest in them.
Pens. One of CAA's pet peeves is the sad phenomenon whereby a weighty and portentious official document, such as a birth certificate or similar, bears an attesting signature apparently affixed by an official using a pen nearly out of ink.
In other words, while the garden variety government-issue ballpoint pens are fine for routine correspondence, checklists, and the like, if the federal government entrusts you with a position where you're certifying the birth, death, naturalization, immigration, or other major life event of someone on a document suitable for framing, for Pete's sake use a real pen!
If you're an FSO take a good look at the nice commissioning document you were given. Nothing tentative about the signatures on that bad boy; nobody was running out of ink that day, let me tell you!
So extend the same courtesy to your clients, your customers, our citizens.
